As you may know, I have planned numerous Italy vacations, including a few with around 10 people. In 2025, however, I was asked to plan the most important one yet – a 10-person trip to Italy to visit an ancestral home in the tiny town of Irsina, Italy! Challenged accepted.
In this post, I’m sharing how our time in Irsina played out—and how you might plan a similar Italian roots-seeking experience of your own.
The whole family – plus me and Dan – in Irsina, Italia. WE MADE IT!
IRSINA, ITALIA
Irsina, Italy is a tiny, hilltop town in Basilicata. It is about 45 minutes from Matera by car, which is likely the closest city to Irsina that you know. The population is only around 5,000 people, including some ex-pats from the US (Irsina was the subject of an interesting CNN article in 2023 discussing its ex-pat community).
From its hilltop perch, Irsina over looks a sweeping grain plateau, which produces much of the pasta used in Italy(!). Given that fact, the city’s economy is, not surprisingly, largely based on agriculture. Tourism is an afterthought at best. Indeed, I did not see a single tourist-centric shop (or honestly even an open shop) during our time in Irsina.
Some of the grain fields surrounding Irsina. They are quite majestic.
Like many old Italian cities, Irsina is comprised of a gorgeous old town and a [somewhat] modern new town, which two are joined by a modern, flat road. The new town seemingly holds all of Irsina’s bars, shops, and cafes (of which there are very few), while the old town holds Irsina’s charm and character.
Ancient walls surround the old town, which you access through entry gates that were likely once much more impressive. Once in the old town, Irsina is incredibly beautiful and unspoiled. That said, it is eerily quiet and there are not many open businesses. You’ll want to arrive prepared and ensure that what you want to do and see is open (for example, it rained and we did not see a single store selling umbrellas…or a cafe to pop in and wait out the rain).
Some of the group in Irsina’s old town. We, unfortunately, got a little rain. Luckily, we brought our own umbrellas, as there was, truly, no where to buy them in Irsina.
ARRIAVL IN IRSINA
We arrived in Irsina mid-morning to light rain, which was disappointing, as we had wonderful weather on the rest of our trip! Our pre-arranged van dropped us off in Irsina’s new town, near to a pharmacy that was just calling our name (for skin care and makeup shopping, IYKYK) and a pub with a welcoming Guinness sign. We (sadly) visited neither.
Made it to Irsina! Here we are in the new town after being dropped off.
The aforementioned Farmacia. We really wanted to do some shopping here but time did not permit it.
This was another adorable old shop in Irsina’s new town. It was not open on Thursday when we visited. I loved the old green and white sign.
The Guinness sign at Ristorante da Andrea. This was also closed (otherwise, you know I would have been there!).
And for the blooper reel, here we are trying to figure out how to get to the old town from where we were dropped off (there was a bit of a language barrier).
ENTERING OLD IRSINA & MEETING OUR TOUR GUIDE, LUCIANO
Despite feeling a little out of place being simply dropped off by our non-English speaking driver and told he would return much later, we quickly found the entrance gate to the old town. We located our guide, Luciano, pretty quickly in Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, one of Irsina’s main squares. He was the only other person there.
And, hiring Luciano as our Irsina guide turned out to be one of the best decisions I made the whole trip. He went above and beyond and made our time in Irsina extra memorable. For example, we expected to walk around the old town on arrival, but Luciano turned us right around, as we had an important surprise meeting in the new part of town with … IRSINA’S DEPUTY MAYOR!!! This was incredibly exciting for the group (most of whom had never visited Italy previously, and none of whom had visited Irsina!). We felt very special.
One of Irsina’s old town gates.
Cool trees in Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. These were all around Irsina.
MEETING IRSINA’S DEPUTY MAYOR
We quickly made our way to Irsina’s Comune, or town hall, and proceeded to its second floor where Irsina’s Deputy Mayor, along with a translator, was waiting to meet us! The Deputy Mayor was super nice and welcomed us like long lost family. She had also done some research on the family (which was so, so kind!).
The Deputy Mayor and some of her colleagues met with our group for quite a while, in Italian, and shared some history about Irsina. She also asked questions about the family and provided some information she had gathered from her own Irsina family. Crazily, the Deputy Mayor even shared a last name with one of my friend’s relatives. How wild. She was also able to confirm the general location of the ancestral home we so badly wanted to find.
After speaking with the Deputy Mayor for a decent amount of time, we took photos in the colorful courtroom of the Comune and exchanged contact information. Indeed, we all left the Mayor’s office very satisfied. Our Irsina tour probably could have ended then and we would have left happy.
We made it to Irsina’s Comune. While Comunes are open to the public, they are not generally open to tourists and there is often not a lot of English spoken (as this is real business). Read: you need to make advance arrangements to do something like this (or hire Luciano).
We spent a lot of time in this courtroom. This is its very impressive mural from 1977.
Some of our group in the Mayor’s office. The Deputy Mayor is the woman in the center with the Italy sash (the same sash that the Deputy Consul General when I took my Italian citizenship oath!). Thank you, Irsina!!
SEARCHING FOR THE FAMILY HOME
By the time we left the Comune, it was early afternoon, and the sun had come out! It was officially time to explore beautiful Irsina in search of the historic family home. Luciano led the way, armed solely with general directions from the Deputy Mayor and an old photo, of a photo, from the 1990s….. In any case, this gave us the opportunity to explore the many corners and side streets of charming Irsina. It was very quiet on this Thursday, seeming as if we were the only people in town (that was honestly a little odd). We came across some “I could totally live here” moments, and other “no one has lived here for a very long time” moments. It proved to be quite interesting.
Game-planning with Luciano prior to looking for the family residence.
A very cute sign on a building, which had obviously been redone in an old style.
Our group searching for the residence. This is all our group; there was no one else around.
We stopped to peer inside see an old church.
The interior was actually incredible. I hope this is restored.
This house was very cute. Clearly an active residence that is well maintained.
Irsina.
Still on the hunt for the family residence.
These views were really gorgeous, and they were around every corner.
LARGO S. ANDREA & THE FAMILY HOME
Meandering through Irsina, we finally came across the old family home, which was truly a miracle! We really could not believe it when the son-in-law simply said, I think that’s it. And, it was! The home remains standing and, we believe, still inhabited, albeit by another family. It is located on Largo S. Andrea. We took a lot of photos, making me hope the current owners were not home!
Largo S. Andrea.
We found the family home!
Another of the family residence. We were very proud of ourselves.
And here’s the group at the family residence! It did look just like the photos.
CHIESA DE SANT’ANDREA
Right next to the ancestral home was the most adorable little chapel – Chiesa de Sant’Andrea – that we stopped in. Built as long ago as 1592, it was partially destroyed in multiple earthquake, but recently renovated in 2022. Chiesa de Sant’Andrea was a really sweet chapel; we could imagine the ancestors coming here. And, randomly, two elderly Irsina residents stopped in, started speaking to our guide in Italian, and it actually turned out that they remembered one of the relatives that moved to the US many, many years ago. A real White Lotus moment for us all (except they seemed happy to see us)!
While incredibly interesting, some of their account raised more questions than answers, but of course, memories fade and immigration stories from 100 years ago are notoriously not 100% accurate… In any case, we enjoyed meeting them. This couple still lives across the street.
Chiesa de Sant’Andrea.
The entirety of the tiny Chiesa de Sant’Andrea.
MORE ADORABLE CORNERS OF IRSINA
From the ancestral home, we backtracked through Irsina to the Duomo di Irsina, Irsina’s largest church. Before reaching the church, however, we walked by many more gorgeous viewpoints and pretty Irsina streets, including Via Ascensione, which offers stunning views. I highly recommending seeking out Via Ascensione for photos if you are in Irsina (it’s on the backside of town).
A winding walkway from Irsina to flat ground. It is a ramp because it used to be used by horses and carriages. One of the family members had memories of this being described.
This is one of the “could I move here” courtyards.
Views from Via Ascensione in Irsina.
More field views from Via Ascensione.
Pryor, Dan, and I in the rain!
We really loved these hill top views.
Another “should we move here” moment.
DUOMO DI IRSINA
Our next, and final tour stop on our Irsina tour, was the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, Duomo di Irsina, wherein we had the most in depth cathedral tour of our lives. The Duomo caretaker was particularly passionate about his job and insanely excited to have visitors. We saw everything in the Duomo, from the famous statue of Saint Euphemia, to its off-limits basement, to the Bishop’s robes! The tour was impressive, albeit slightly long. This was spur of the moment and totally done by the Duomo’s caretaker. If you speak Italian and ask for a similar tour, I’m confident he would oblige.
Of note at the Duomo, our friend’s father vividly recalls his relative describing certain features of this Duomo, which actually turned out to exist! It was pretty surreal to learn that his stories matched the church exactly, including a dip on the main steps leading into the Duomo!
Duomo di Irsina.
Locating the Duomo, where some of the family went to mass, was also exciting and felt like a win.
And by way of a little background about the Duomo di Irsina, it is impressive. The present building was constructed in the 13th century and remodeled in 1777. It has a Baroque façade and a Gothic campanile. It contains a baptismal font of red marble and a number of 18th-century paintings of the Neapolitan School. It also features a well-known marble statue of Saint Euphemia. Questions remain over who sculpted this statute (Mantegna or Pietro Lombardo), but its really well done. The Duomo is definitely worth a stop if you are in Irsina.
The interior of the Duomo of Irsina.
The Duomo di Irsina’s red marble baptistery. This is right next to the entrance.
The famous statute of Saint Euphemia. She was impressive.
The side view was also interesting.
The Duomo basement visit was unexpected. It is not open to the public, but is a beautiful space, which is currently used as storage. I would love to see the basement renovated. It would make a gorgeous event space (weddings, anyone?). It was also super cool to visit. They just don’t make churches like they used to.
Made it to the basement of the Duomo di Irsina. I was really hoping for no earthquakes.
This architecture was beautiful.
As mentioned, we ended with a tour of a private, off-limits room used by Priests and Bishops when in town. We even got to see (and touch!) their colorful robes. The tour ended out a back door, which revealed really more beautiful views of Irsina.
The private clergy room.
Brightly colored Bishop’s robes.
Irsina from behind the Duomo di Irsina.
Had to snap a picture.
LUNCH AT TRATTORIA NUGENT
After our in-depth Irsina Duomo tour, it was FINALLY time for lunch (we were starving)! I made a reservation at Trattoria Nugent about 2 weeks prior, which is one of only a handful of sit down restaurants in Irsina. A full post is coming on our lunch at Trattoria Nugent but it was fantastic and super reasonably priced. Dan still talks about it, LOL.
At Trattoria Nugent, our group enjoyed typical Lucian dishes, handmade pasta, and three types of local digestifs. I cannot recommend Trattoria Nugent enough if you are in Irsina (it reminded me a lot of Il Postaccio in Montefalco!).
Trattoria Nugent! What a fantastic entrance.
This pasta, made with local wild boar, was truly outstanding. It was 10 euro.
Lunch at Trattoria Nugent! Our tour guide joined us for lunch. He was super interesting.
The Irsina group! Yes, we made t-shirts for the trip, which we debuted at Trattoria Nugent!
FINAL VIEWS FROM PIAZZA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI
Post-lunch, we stopped for a final view of the fields surrounding Irsina from Piazza Giuseppe Garabaldi, as it had totally stopped raining at this point and blue skies had appeared, and took a lot of pictures. We then walked back to the Farmacia, which was now sadly closed, and drove back to Matera.
A beautiful Fall day in Irsina.
Piazza Giuseppe Garabaldi.
PARTING THOUGHTS ON IRSINA
Looking back, we had wonderfully enjoyable and well planned day in Irsina. We accomplished what we wanted to – we found the family home – and did lots of unexpected things, such as meeting the Deputy Mayor and taking an extended tour of the Irsina Duomo.
For those in the area, Irsina makes for a decent half-day trip from Matera. However, like many towns in this part of Italy, they are quiet. There is not a ton to do, and not a lot of stores or restaurants that are open at all hours of the day. Plan accordingly, especially if you will not have the ability to come and go as you please (i.e. a car). Further, if you are searching for family roots, I cannot stress how important it is to do as much research as possible in advance and hire a tour guide. Luciano truly made our day. Our visit to Irsina would have been much different without his guidance.
STEAL OUR DAY TRIP TO IRSINA
Italian Side: I utilized Italian Side to assist in planning our day trip to Irsina. Italian Side works throughout Italy and connected me with Slow Italy Tours Ferula Viaggi, who actually retained our guide and planned our trip to Irsina.
Slow Italy Tours Ferula Viaggi: I cannot recommend Slow Italy Tours Ferula Viaggi enough. I provided limited information on the family roots. Slow Italy went above and beyond and did its own research, pulled documents for us, found the family home, and even scheduled the meeting with the mayor’s office. This would have been impossible to do without someone on the ground. Highly recommend. Prices reasonable. Slow Italy specializes in Puglia and Basilicata.
Made in South of Italy: This company organized our driver between Matera and Irsina. Everything worked out seamlessly, and the price was noticeably less than other operators. You can reach this company here: noleggio@shuttlematera.com. It was quite responsive.
Trattoria Nugent: Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, cortile nugent 6, 75022 Irsina MT, Italy. Open Wednesday – Saturday and Monday 12:30 – 2:30 PM and 7:30 PM – 10:30 PM. Open Sunday from 12:30 – 2:30 PM only. Closed Tuesday. Reservations probably not needed. This restaurant is wonderful.