La Lopa Matera Review: An Unforgettable Cave Restaurant in the Sassi

I returned to Matera for the second time last October, just prior to visiting my friend’s family hometown of Irsina. We had some not-so-wonderful meals our first time in Matera, so this time I prioritized great food (and succeeded!). La Lopa, a cave restaurant only a few steps from our hotel, receives good reviews and serves local Lucan dishes. I called a few days in advance and, very luckily, reserved a table for 8 without issue. Little did I know, we would have our own private room and some of the best food of the entire trip! Continue reading

3.5 Days in Rome: The Ultimate Food & Sightseeing Itinerary for First-Time Visitors

If you have been following recent posts, our family trip to Italy began and ended in Rome, with one day on the front end and 2.5 days on the back end. This left us just 3.5 total days to to experience one of the most historic and delicious cities in the world. Knowing our audience, we prioritized the Rome’s tourist highlights and eating the best food possible.

Rome at sunset.

Now, is that enough time in Rome? Absolutely not. But if you’re planning a 1–2 week Italy itinerary and hopping around Italy, this is realistically the amount of time many travelers dedicate to Rome. The good news? With the right plan, 3.5 days is enough to see Rome’s iconic highlights, wander its charming streets, soak in centuries of history, and — perhaps most importantly — eat some absolutely unforgettable food.

Centro Storcio, Roma.

This article breaks down exactly how we spent our time in Rome, what’s worth prioritizing, and how to experience the city without feeling completely overwhelmed.

The Colosseum.

DAY 1: LANDING IN ROME, ROOFTOP DINING, TREVI FOUNTAIN, A FOOD TOUR THROUGH TRASTEVERE, AND SANT’IGNAZIO CHURCH

We excitedly arrived in Rome on a Saturday morning. Immigration was delightfully quick and all our luggage arrived. A pre-booked car had us at our hotel by noon. This trip, unlike other Rome trips, we spent our first night in the Piazza Barberini area, at Hotel Rome Mate Collection Filippo and the Aleph Rome. Both hotels were excellent and highly recommended. We selected these hotels knowing they would be great for a restful first night (i.e., strong air conditioning and American mattresses, IYKYK).

The very beautiful Hotel Room Mate Collection.

After dropping our luggage, most of the group walked to Rinascente, which is an upscale Roman department store (kind of like Printemps or Galleries Lafayette in Paris). We [sadly] did not shop and instead made our way to the rooftop restaurant for lunch and Roman views. The weather was perfect. We started the trip strong with a delicious focaccia pizza topped with prosciutto and figs.

Fig & Prosciutto Foccacia at Rinascente.

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How to Order Focaccia in Italy: La Focacceria 5 Lire in Matera

I typically don’t write about grab-and-go type restaurants, but I cannot stop thinking about La Focacceria Italiana 5 Lire Matera in Matera, Italy. The friends that I visited it with also loved it, so here is my post on how you can visit and properly order from La Focacceria Italiana 5 Lire Matera (or, honestly, most focacce in Italy).

5 Lire Foccaceria Italiana Matera.

La Focacceria 5 Lire Matera, or simply “5 Lire” around town, is a very casual “focacceria” in Matera. It is located on Via Domenico Ridola above the Sassi. It is named for the former currency of Italy, the “lire”, which changed to the euro in 1999.

Via Via Domenico Ridola, just outside of 5 Lire.

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A Perfect (and Reasonably Priced) Lunch in Irsina: Trattoria Nugent

As promised, in follow up to my last post discovering family roots in Irsina, Basilicata (Italy), this post highlights a stand out lunch at Trattoria Nugent, one of only a handful of restaurants in this small, charming town.

In short, it was everything you’d hope for in a local Italian meal. The restaurant was easy to find, welcoming, and absolutely delicious. It was also very local, and the prices pleasantly reasonable. It was exactly the kind of place that makes travel feel personal – simple, genuine, and deeply satisfying.

The group at Trattoria Nugent in Irsina, Italy. Trattoria Nugent had no issues with accommodating a group of 10!

TRATTORIA NUGENT

Trattoria Nugent is located in a picturesque courtyard of Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, Irsina’s main square. Open every day for lunch and dinner, except Tuesday, this restaurant describes itself as serving traditional Lucana dishes. We made a reservation a week in advance by having our tour guide call ahead. That being said, you can contact Trattoria Nugent via its What’s App, which information is on its Instagram page, to make a reservation. While you may not need a reservation, they are incredibly common in Italy so that restaurants can prepare an appropriate amount of food. Read – be like a local and make a resy!

Trattoria Nugent in Irsina.

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We Traveled to Irsina, Italy to Find a Family Home—Here’s What Happened

As you may know, I have planned numerous Italy vacations, including a few with around 10 people. In 2025, however, I was asked to plan the most important one yet – a 10-person trip to Italy to visit an ancestral home in the tiny town of Irsina, Italy! Challenged accepted.

In this post, I’m sharing how our time in Irsina played out—and how you might plan a similar Italian roots-seeking experience of your own.

The whole family – plus me and Dan – in Irsina, Italia. WE MADE IT!

IRSINA, ITALIA

Irsina, Italy is a tiny, hilltop town in Basilicata. It is about 45 minutes from Matera by car, which is likely the closest city to Irsina that you know. The population is only around 5,000 people, including some ex-pats from the US (Irsina was the subject of an interesting CNN article in 2023 discussing its ex-pat community).

From its hilltop perch, Irsina over looks a sweeping grain plateau, which produces much of the pasta used in Italy(!). Given that fact, the city’s economy is, not surprisingly, largely based on agriculture. Tourism is an afterthought at best. Indeed, I did not see a single tourist-centric shop (or honestly even an open shop) during our time in Irsina.

Some of the grain fields surrounding Irsina. They are quite majestic.

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