Naxos Itinerary: A Relaxed Greek Island Escape.

Chora and Portara. Naxos, Greece.

As you may know, last summer’s July 4 vacation took us back to Greece,this time to Crete and Naxos. I shared a lot about our time in Crete and how you can recreate it our trip for yourself, but I haven’t shared much about Naxos. And quite frankly, that is because I absolutely LOVED Naxos and simply cannot put into a blog post how much. We also didn’t do anything too touristy or fancy; we just relaxed and enjoyed the island. In this post, I will share what we did with our time in Naxos, including what we loved, what was meh (very little), and what I will do again. If you are considering Naxos as a vacation destination, I highly recommend it!

Whitewashed buildings in Chora, Naxos, Greece

Chora, Naxos, Greece.

NAXOS ISLAND – LOCATION & GENERAL INFORMATION

The Cyclades are a group of famous Greek islands that are well know for being the “blue and white islands” made famous by the likes of Mama Mia and the legends of Santorini. The Cyclades are also home to the party-centric Mykonos and the recently popular Milos. Naxos is the largest of all the islands in the Cyclades. We have been to 5 of the Cyclades (Santorini, Mykonos, Milos, Paros, and Naxos), and we love this island group.

A map showing the location of Naxos in the Greek islands

Naxos, Greece on a map.

Naxos, and the Cyclades generally, are pretty accessible to Athens via a short flight or a ferry. We took the ferry to Naxos from Crete and returned to Athens via plane (25 minutes!). Naxos also has easy ferry connections to other islands in the Cyclades, including Santorini and Paros, making it a good stop on a Greek island hop.

Santorini seen from the ferry deck on the way to Naxos

Santorini from our ferry.

DAY 1: A FAST FERRY, A BLUE & WHITE ISLAND, & DELICIOUS GREEK FOOD!

Our first day in Naxos began with a 3 hour ferry ride from Heraklion to Naxos, briefly stopping at Santorini on the way. We did not get off at Santorini (as we’ve been twice previously, and there is no time to “get off” at ferry stops) but we did catch gorgeous views on our way in and out. We arrived in Naxos right on time, grabbed our luggage, and luckily found a taxi to drive us to our hotel, Iliada Sunset Suites. And pro tip, if you need a taxi from the ferry port in Naxos, book in advance. There are not a lot of ferries on this land. We got lucky grabbing one without much of a wait.

Waiting for a taxi at the ferry port in Naxos

Trying to call a taxi…

A man with his dog at the Naxos ferry port

Also saw this guy with his dog. Need.

The ferry port in Naxos is in Naxos town, or “Chora”, which is Naxos’ main town and was also where we stayed during our visit. We arrived at our hotel, Iliada Sunset Suites, around midday (you could literally see Iliada Sunset Suites from the ferry port but its uphill and too much to walk with luggage), but could not check in until around 3 or 4 in the afternoon. As such, we left our luggage set out on a stroll through Chora in search of lunch.

Arriving at Iliada Sunset Suites in Naxos Town

Arriving at Iliada Sunset Suites. The hotel is tiny, so it has to strictly stick to check in and out times during high season.

As we had been in Crete earlier on this trip, and Crete is NOT blue and white, I was very excited by all the blue and white things we saw walking through Chora. It was very Mama Mia.

Blue and white painted steps and walls in Chora, Naxos

Blue & white!

Blue and white buildings in Chora, Naxos, Greece

Blue and white buildings in Chora Naxos. 

I had researched some lunch spots on the ferry and really wanted to eat at what is frequently described as Naxos’ best gyro spot, To Souvlaki sou Makis, but it was not open when we arrived (despite online saying otherwise…). We kept walking and ended up at Yasouvlaki, a touristy restaurant right on the waterfront. I didn’t expect too much given how touristy Yasouvlaki looked, but it was actually quite good. And very inexpensive. I ended up grabbing a snack at Yasouvlaki another day.

A Mythos beer at Yasouvlaki on the Chora waterfront in Naxos

I am always happy for a Mythos beer in Greece.

A souvlaki platter at Yasouvlaki restaurant in Chora, Naxos

A tasty souvlaki platter at Yasouvlaki.

We were able to get into our room after lunch. And what a room it was. I was a little concerned because we were getting hostel vibes when we first checked in and dropped off our luggage, but we were totally wrong. Our room was spacious, clean, quiet, and offered beautiful views, including from our own private jacuzzi!

Table and chairs on the Helen Suite deck at Iliada Sunset Suites

Room views of the Naxos Portara from our room (the Helen) at Iliada Sunset Suites.

After some rest and enjoying our lovely room and the hotel’s infinity pool, we set out for dinner. And of course, Dan wanted to stop on the way for shisha at a place we passed earlier, Gemma Naxian Bistro. While definitely touristy, it was a cool spot with friendly service.

A decorative hookah at Gemma Naxian Bistro in Chora, Naxos

An interesting hookah at Gemma Naxian Bistro.

We left Gemma just in time for sunset, which, like in Crete, was so, so beautiful. Don’t sleep on the sunsets in Naxos (or Greece generally!)

Sunset light in an alleyway in Chora, Naxos

Sunset in a random alleyway.

Chora, Naxos at sunset

Chora in the sunset.

Dinner tonight was at Capriccio, a restaurant on Chora’s waterfront. I cannot recall why we selected this restaurant, possibly because the seating looked nice. In any case, we did not have advance reservations, and the menu was Greek/Italian. The food was pretty good. We especially enjoyed Naxian potatoes, or potatoes smothered in the local Naxian cheese, and calamari.

Fried Naxian potatoes with local cheese at Capriccio in Naxos

Fried potatoes with Naxian cheese.

Greek fried calamari at Capriccio restaurant in Chora, Naxos

Greek fried calamari. This was very good. 

DAY 2: SAILING TO PAROS, SUNSET AT THE PORTARA OF NAXOS, & DINING AT THE NAXOS APOTHECARY

Our second day in Naxos began with a sail from Chora to Paros, Naxos’ neighbor island. We were excited about this sail, because Dan and I visited Paros way back in 2008(!) on our very first trip to Greece. Our sailboat departed right on time from Chora’s port. There was a bit of concern that the high winds would prevent us from making it to Paros, but we made it, albeit a bit bumpy. Once on Paros, we stopped at a few locations to swim and cliff (or more like rock) jumping.

Arriving at Paros by sailboat from Naxos

Made it to Paros!

The coastline of Paros seen from a sailboat

Paros.

On board the sailboat off Paros, Greece

Dan on the boat in Paros.

Greek beer on the sailing trip from Naxos to Paros

We drank Greek beer on the boat.

We ate lunch on the boat before sailing back to Naxos. The lunch was really fantastic, including the best Naxian salad I think I had and absolutely delicious tzatziki. We also sailed back into Naxos just in time to catch a glimpse of a lot of kite surfers, which is really popular in Naxos due to the wind.

A Naxian salad served on the sailboat between Naxos and Paros

A Naxian Salad on the boat.

Homemade tzatziki served on the Naxos to Paros sailing trip

Homemade tzatziki.

Kite surfers off the coast of Naxos, Greece

Kite surfers in Naxos.

Sailing back into Naxos from Paros

Sailing back to Naxos.

The sailboat returning to Naxos, Greece

One more.

After using the hotel’s pool, we decided to walk out to the Portara for sunset, which is an incredibly popular thing to do in Naxos. The Portara is Naxos’ most famous site. Also known as the Temple of Apollo, the Portara is an ancient Greek temple dedicated to the god Apollo that was built way back in 6 BC. When we visited, it was totally free to visit and tourists could simply walk up to it and watch the sunset. Shortly after our visit, I read that some stupid tourists unfortunately damaged it and Naxos is now closing a portion of it off and/or charging to enter (I think proposals are still being tossed around). In any case, we enjoyed watching the sunset from the Portara. It was really beautiful.
Sunset at the Portara, the Temple of Apollo, in Naxos, Greece

Sunset at the Portara in Naxos Greece.

Looking back at Naxos Town from the Portara at sunset

Looking back at Naxos Town after as the sunset from the Portara.

The sunset crowd gathered at the Portara in Naxos

The crowd for reference.

The Portara silhouetted against the sunset in Naxos, Greece

Sunset from the Portara.

This evening’s dinner was just down from the Portara at the Naxos Apothecary. Naxos Apothecary is the well-known Greek Korres’ skin care/makeup brand’s upscale arm, which is apparently only available in Greece. And Korres is from Naxos! Korres opened a restaurant, and small shop, right on Naxos’ waterfront with views of the Portara. We did not have a reservation, but were seated easily. I was really excited to eat here due to its connection to the Korres brand and loved our meal. Dan was not the hugest fan. I would definitely return.

Dinner served at The Naxos Apothecary in Chora, Naxos

Dinner from the Naxos Apothecary.

A Naxian salad at The Naxos Apothecary in Chora, Naxos

A delicious and creative Naxian Salad at the Naxos Apothecary.

Greek lamb with mashed celeriac and cooked greens at The Naxos Apothecary

A lamb dish at the Naxos Apothecary.

DAY 3: ST. GEORGE BEACH, THE BEST GYRO, & A SUNSET APERITIVO FROM OUR PRIVATE BALCONY

Our third, and final full, day in Naxos was a “free” day, where we decided that we would do whatever we felt like. Exploring the island outside Chora was tentatively on the agenda, but we decided to simply hang around Naxos town on our final day. After a tasty breakfast at Iliada Sunset Suites, we set off on foot for St. George Beach, about a 30 minute walk. On route, especially near our hotel, we had gorgeous views of the Greek sea. I miss it so much.

The sea below Iliada Sunset Suites in Naxos Town

The sea just outside of Iliada Sunset Suites. I have a hundred pictures like this.

When we arrived at St. George Beach, it reminded us a lot of the Greek beaches that we visited back in 2008 on our very first trip to Greece, including those on Perissa Beach in Santorini. The area around St. George Beach boasts many guest houses and apartment rentals, as well as cafes and beach clubs. We would consider staying here in the future, especially if staying longer than a few nights. We stopped at one of St. George’s many beach clubs for a Cappuccino Freddo and tzatziki with pita bread (it was almost our last day!).

A cappuccino freddo at a beach club on St. George Beach, Naxos

A beach Cappuccino Freddo.

Greek tzatziki with pita bread at St. George Beach, Naxos

Real Greek tzatziki.

St. George Beach in Naxos, Greece

St. George Beach in Naxos, Greece.

Sun loungers for rent on St. George Beach in Naxos

Sun loungers for rent.

Standing on St. George Beach in Naxos, Greece

Dan at St. George Beach.

The beach club area along St. George Beach in Naxos

St. George Beach area.

After quite a bit of walking around St. George Beach, we walked back into the heart of Chora to again try to lunch at To Souvlaki sou Makis, the gyro place we tried to lunch at our first day. Well, we were successful and To Souvlaki sou Makis was well worth the wait. The gyro was excellent. Just what I wanted for my last island gyro (at least for a while).

A traditional Greek gyro from To Souvlaki sou Makis in Naxos

Traditional Greek gyro in Naxos at To Souvlaki sou Makis,.

After lunch and, or course, a bit of shopping, we retired to our room to enjoy the pool, the hot tub, and the sunset from our deck. We even purchased Mythos beer and tzatziki chips for sunset!

Mythos beer and tzatziki chips for sunset in Naxos

Mythos & tzatziki chips!

View of the Naxos Portara from Iliada Sunset Suites at sunset

View of Naxos Portara from Iliada Sunset Suites at sunset.

Naxos Town after sunset seen from Iliada Sunset Suites

Some of the best pictures are after the sun sets.

Evening light over Chora, Naxos after sunset

Fine.

The Portara seen from a room at Iliada Sunset Suites, Naxos

One more of the Portara from our room.

We ventured back into Chora for our final dinner in Naxos. We again did not have reservations, but decided on Taverna Naxos. I had walked by this restaurant earlier and it looked decent. The wait was only about 5 minutes. The food here was a mix of “Italian” and Naxian, similar to a lot of restaurants on the Chora waterfront. It was pretty tasty. Taverna Naxos also had excellent gin and tonics.

A Naxian Salad at ______.

A Naxian Salad at Taverna Naxos.

DAY 4: FINAL MED VIEWS & FLYING TO ATHENS

We spent our final morning in Naxos enjoying our balcony and hot tub at Iliada Sunset Suites. I did not want to leave. We asked our hotel to organize a taxi to Naxos’ tiiiiiny airport. We arrived too early for our flight, but eventually made it to Athens with no  issues.

The balcony at Iliada Sunset Suites on the last morning in Naxos

Enjoying the last morning of our balcony.

The infinity pool at Iliada Sunset Suites in Naxos

Bye to the beautiful pool.

Leaving Naxos, with Iliada Sunset Suites visible on the hillside

Bye, Naxos! We’ll be back! Also, you can see our hotel in this picture!

STEAL OUR TRIP

Iliada Sunset Suites: We stayed in the Helen suite.
Yasouvlaki Naxos: Open 11:30 AM – 6:00 AM.
Gemma Naxian Bistro: Open nearly all hours.
Capriccio Restaurant, Port Street, Naxos 843 00, Greece. Open daily 13:30 – 23:00
Naxos to Paros Sail with Lunch: This is the sail tour that we took. The cost was $189 per person and included lunch and lots of beer and white wine.
The Naxos Apothecary: Ariadnis 1, Naxos 843 00, Greece. Generally open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Reservations suggested. Closes during winter.
Trata: Open daily 10:00 – 00:00.
To Souvlaki sou Makis, Sokratous Papavasiliou, Naxos 843 00, Greece. Open Monday – Saturday 12:30 – 1:00 (although they opened quite late (well after 12:30) twice when we tried to visit).
Taverna Naxos, Protopapadaki, Naxos 843 00, Greece. Open daily 12:00 – 00:30.
SeaJets Ferry: This is SeaJets’ website. You can read about our experience on SeaJets here.

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