A Tale of Two Wineries in Berat, Albania

Alpeta Agroturismo, the farm hotel and winery in the hills near Berat, Albania

The area around Berat, Albania is well known (at least in Albania) for producing wine with local Albanian grapes, many of which I had never heard of (and still cannot remember). Loving wine and really loving the wine that we tasted in Montenegro and Croatia in 2019, Dan and I visited two wineries in the Berat area on our vacation to Albania last summer – Çobo Winery and Alpeta Agorturismo. We enjoyed the tastings and tours and I would recommend an afternoon visit to one of these wineries while visiting Berat. This article reviews our time at each winery.

ÇOBO WINERY – more authentic feeling, tasty sparkling wine, a good meat, cheese, & olive pairing

Our Berat wine adventure began about 25 minutes outside of Berat at Çobo Winery, which is mentioned in many a guide books discussing Berat. Side note, “Çobo” is pronounced nothing like it looks.

The Çobo Winery building, about 25 minutes outside Berat, Albania

Çobo Winery.

We arrived at Çobo and drove up what appeared to be a residential driveway. And, it may have been a residential driveway, but it was also the entrance to Çobo. Our driver parked and walked us inside, where we were greeted by a Çobo employee. The employee gave us a quick history lesson on Çobo and a brief tour of the facilities, which were pretty tiny. The highlight for me was the wine themed mosaic in the cellar.

The residential-style driveway leading up to Çobo Winery near Berat, Albania

The drive way to Çobo Winery!

The outdoor tasting area at Çobo Winery near Berat, Albania

Outdoor tasting area at Çobo Winery.

An old wine vessel in the Çobo Winery cellar, decorated with a wine-themed mosaic

An old wine container with said mosaic.

Barrels aging wine in the cellar at Çobo Winery, Berat, Albania

Barrel aging.

After our little tour, we circled back to the tasting room to try several tastings, or really glasses, of Çobo wines. Most were made with local grapes, so I could not keep track of exactly what we were drinking. Out wine was paired with an abundance of snacks – local olives, Albanian cheese (it is so good!), bread with local olive oil, and some local pork products. We tried raki, the Albanian national spirit, after our wine and ended the tasting with Çobo’s sparking wine, a rarity in these parts. The sparkling wine was done in the Champagnois method, and I loved it. Had the bottle not been close to $40 USD, I would brought some home to the US.

The tasting room at Çobo Winery outside Berat, Albania

Pretty standard tasting room.

A decorative installation in the tasting room at Çobo Winery, Berat

Cool installation in the tasting room.

Grape-motif detailing at Çobo Winery, echoing the mosaic down in the cellar

I enjoyed how the winery had a lot of “grape” touches, just like the mosaic in the cellar.

The lineup of Çobo wines poured during our tasting near Berat, Albania

The lineup.

Local Albanian olives served at the start of the Çobo Winery tasting

Starting with Albanian olives.

Our first pour at Çobo Winery, a 2020 wine made from local Albanian grapes

This was our first tasting. A local wine from 2020.

Albanian cheese served alongside the wine at Çobo Winery, Berat

Albanian cheese to match the wine.

A further plate of Albanian cheese at the Çobo Winery tasting, Berat

More Albanian cheese.

Our second pour at Çobo Winery, another 2020 local Albanian wine

Our second tasting, another 2020. I largely stopped photographing after this.

Bread and local olive oil paired with raki at Çobo Winery, Berat

Bread and olive oil to pair with the raki.

A glass of local raki, the Albanian national spirit, at Çobo Winery

A local raki.

The second raki poured at Çobo Winery, the bottle that came home with us

Another Raki. This one came home with us.

The full spread of olives, cheese, bread and wine at Çobo Winery, Berat

The full spread.

Çobo Winery's sparkling wine, a rarity among Albanian producers

Çobo’s very delicious sparking wine.

Çobo's sparkling wine, made by the traditional Champagne method, Berat, Albania

Done in the champagne method!

ALPETA AGROTURISMO – very pretty setting, good raki

After Çobo Winery, we drove back toward Berat, turned left, and drove up a very windy mountain to Alpeta Agroturismo. The drive, while windy, was stunning! Alpeta Agroturismo is a European agroturismo, comprised of a small hotel as well as farm, this one which makes wine! Alpeta started back in 1994 by the Fiska family and has been producing wine since. Per Alpeta, its specialty are red wines, including merlot and cabernet, white made from the local Pulez grape, and traditional raki. Alpeta is a very beautiful property. I would love to stay there another time.

Alpeta Agroturismo, the hilltop farm hotel and winery above Berat, Albania

Agroturismo Alpeta.

The welcome sign at the entrance to Alpeta Agroturismo in Roshnik, Albania

Welcome!

On arrival, we were greeted by our Alpeta guide, who walked us to the gorgeous al fresco dining room where we would later eat lunch. Again, stunning!

The al fresco dining room where we ate lunch at Alpeta Agroturismo

The lunching area.

We next met one of Alpeta’s wine makers and toured a small bit of vineyards, some of the property, and the bottling room.

The Alpeta Agroturismo property and vineyards above Berat, Albania

Alpeta.

The terrace off the restaurant at Alpeta Agroturismo, Roshnik, Albania

Gorgeous area off the restaurant.

Dan with one of the winemakers at Alpeta Agroturismo near Berat, Albania

Dan and one of the wine makers.

The grounds of Alpeta Agroturismo on the mountainside above Berat, Albania

Alpeta property.

A second dining area at Alpeta Agroturismo in Roshnik, Albania

Another dining area at Alpeta.

The bottling room at the Alpeta Agroturismo winery, Roshnik, Albania

Bottling room.

The best part of our tour was the finale, lunch! We dined al fresco overlooking the beautiful surrounding mountains. For lunch, we enjoyed a traditional Albanian lunch, complete with Albanian cheese (like Feta), grilled vegetables, tomatoes, some meat, and the tastiest spinach pie. We also tasted three wines and two raki. All were quite good. Dan particularly liked the raki. I think we purchased another bottle of this.

Lunch served al fresco at Alpeta Agroturismo above Berat, Albania

Lunch at Alpeta.

A traditional Albanian lunch of cheese, grilled vegetables, tomatoes and spinach pie at Alpeta

A traditional Albanian lunch.

A wine made from Pulëz, the local white grape, at Alpeta Agroturismo

The local Pulëz grape.

A glass of Alpeta's merlot poured with lunch in Roshnik, Albania

Merlot.

Alpeta's merlot and cabernet poured side by side at lunch, Roshnik, Albania

Merlot and Cabernet.

A classic Albanian raki served at Alpeta Agroturismo in Roshnik

Classic Albanian raki.

Barrel-aged raki tasted after lunch at Alpeta Agroturismo, Roshnik, Albania

Barrel aged raki.

The mountain view from the lunch table at Alpeta Agroturismo, Roshnik, Albania

Lunch views.

I cannot leave this write up without mentioning one of the most interesting things at Alpeta – the wine barrel themed toilet! LOL.

The wine barrel themed toilet at Alpeta Agroturismo, finished with a red bow

Yes, that is a toilet. Not sure about the red bow.

In sum, if you are visiting Berat and you like wine, visit one of these wineries. Both visits were relatively short and well worth the price. We took a tour with Tirana Day Trips but you can absolutely do this much cheaper on your own with a car or a taxi (just make sure the taxi knows you need them to return).

STEAL OUR TRIP

Çobo Winery: Ura Vajgurore, 1001, Albania. Open daily. I suggest an appointment to ensure someone is there to do the tour and tasting.

Alpeta Agroturismo & Winery: Roshnik, Roshnik Qendër 4012, Albania. Open daily 11:00 – 10:00, kitchen 12:00 – 8:00.

Our tour: We took the Grand Wine Tasting Tour of Berat for 130/person. You can absolute do this for less than a 4th of the cost on your own. Our tour guide was just a driver who ferried us around in his personal car, but he was very nice and a safe driver.

3 thoughts on “A Tale of Two Wineries in Berat, Albania

  1. Alpeta was lovely. Thanks for the recommendation. Wine tasting and views were fab.

Leave a Reply