On our recent trip to Cinque Terre with Dan’s Uncle and Aunt, we spent an afternoon in Manarola learning to make pesto at the Instagram famous Nessun Dorma’s Pesto Experience. This article provides a very detailed review of the Pesto Experience and if its worth the time and money.

RESERVATIONS AT NESSUN DORMA

The first step to enjoying the Pesto Experience is making a reservation. Reservations are complimentary and can be made on Nessun Dorma’s free phone application. You simply enter your information on the application and done! Nessun Dorma emailed us a reminder the day prior. Also, you don’t pay until the actual event, and credit card is accepted.

GETTING TO NESSUN DORMA FROM MANAROLA

Nessun Dorma is located “above” Manarola. To reach Nessun Dorma from the Manarola train station, exit the train station via the tunnel (they only way out), turn left and walk toward the water, this includes going over or around the raised square and then further down toward the water. When you reach the water, veer to the right and follow the seaside path (with the best views of Manarola). Pro tip – do NOT take the very steep hill path that appears to be going to the white umbrellas (or Nessun Dorma). Walk the seaside path until you reach a turn, which taking such turn will do away with the Manarola views. There is a single set of stairs here, as well as a sign for Nessun Dorma. Walk up these stairs and you are in a small park with even better views of Manarola. You will very likely see a line of people waiting to get into Nessun Dorma. Join this line – Nessun Dorma is the area with the white umbrellas in this little park.

I was a tad concerned about the difficulty of reaching Nessun Dorma, given that one of our travel mates has some mobility issues, but if you can walk on flat ground, the walk to Nessun Dorma is not bad.  There is a gradual uphill incline but it’s not too noticeable, especially with the distracting views. The only stairs are the one set of stairs from the path to the restaurant (and a second set if you need to use the restroom). I didn’t count the stairs, but its truly like 1 flight of stairs with a handrail.

CHECK IN TO NESSUN DORMA

At least 30 minutes (and honestly probably more) prior to the commencement of the Pesto Experience, guests line up. And, its best to get here early because seating at Nessun Dorma is first come, first serve, and some seats are MUCH better than others. Before the time of the course, you simply stand in line.

Once the commencement hour strikes, Nessun Dorma checks in parties one at a time, going through a turn style (very classy…) when entering and picking up a complimentary Nessun Dorm apron! And trust me, you will need the apron.

NESSUN DORMA SEATING

Once inside Nessun Dorma, which is entirely open air for guest, seating is free, and if possible, you want a seat on the edge of the restaurant in the middle area. If all seats at the front are taken, go to the back, where seats are often open. The last few tables in the very back have no view of Manarola. I would note that if you are a party of 2, you very well may need to share your table with strangers.

I suggest designating one person in your party to get in first and scour for the best seat available, and then take it.

DRINKS AT NESSUN DORMA

Complimentary water is included on all tables on arrival at Nessun Dorma.  Before the Pesto Experience starts, staff take paid drink orders (i.e., alcohol or soft drinks) from a menu. But note, you do not have to order a drink at this time. If you want to fine, but it is not required, and keep in mind that you are paying for these drinks. You do not need to order anything else from the menu, as the food is already selected and included.

I would also point out that complimentary wine is served at the end of the Pesto Course. Staff comes around throughout the duration if you need extra drinks. Prices are on the menu. I ordered a large Peroni beer.

THE PESTO EXPERIENCE AT NESSUN DORMA

Shortly after seating, every group of two are given a bag of fresh basil. An instructor then comes out with a microphone and educates the group on how to pick and wet the basil to make the pesto. Honestly, the microphone and the number of people in the course make it a bit impersonale, but the views make up for it (but if you want a more intimate experience, this is probably not for you).

Once the pesto is picked and bathed in water, staff provide a mortar and pestle to every two people to crush the basil, pecorino cheese, salt and garlic. Staff demonstrates and come around to ensure that you are doing this properly. This was honestly much more difficult than it looks, but it was pretty fun, with Nessun Dorma blasting loud music and even having a Pesto dance contest during this time, LOL.

Once staff reviews your work and determines it complete, you get to eat your pesto with fresh bread, gluten free bread also available! And even though I made it, this was excellent pesto.

THE FOOD AT NESSUN DORMA

Your homemade pesto, however, is not the only food being served. Nessun Dorma serves a huge platter of prosciutto, melon, bruschetta with pesto and tomato and tomatoes with fresh mozzarella for each group of two. And yes, there are all sorts of alternatives for allergies,  gluten free, vegetarian, vegan (I think), etc. I emailed about a gluten allergy in advance, but you can also just tell the staff day of when you check in (they ask!). As you can probably tell from the below photograph, the food was excellent and more than enough for lunch.  House Cinque Terre white wine is also served once the pesto making gets underway – it was pretty tasty for included white wine.

I would point out that if you come to Nessun Dorma for dinner, I understand the dinner options to be the exact same. As such, I would plan for more of an Aperitivo style dinner if eating at Nessun Dorma for dinner.

FINISHING THE PESTO EXPERIENCE, CONTEST WINNERS AND TAKE AWAY

At the end of the Pesto Experience, every group of 2 receives a complimentary bottle of Cinque Terre red wine to take home, which is so nice. Guests also keep their apron and any of their pesto that they want to take home (small plastic containers are provided). However, note that if you take pesto home, it needs to be refrigerated.  Guests are kicked out of the restaurant pretty quickly once the Pesto Experience ends around 4.

TIPS & TRICKS FOR THE NESSUN DORMA PESTO EXPERIENCE

1. Nessun Dorma is extremely popular. Make a reservation as soon as you know that you may want to attend the Pesto Experience. Cancellation is free.
2. The Pesto Experience is weather dependent, as Nessun Dorma is entirely open air. If it rains a lot, the Pesto Experience will be cancelled.  That being said, weather changes often in Cinque Terre (for example, it rained a lot until about 20 minutes before our class!) and Nessun Dorma will email you to confirm if the class is on the morning of the scheduled experience.
3. There is no restroom inside Nessun Dorma, but there is a public restroom above Nessun Dorma in a small public park. Nessun Dorma patrons visit for free; other tourists pay a euro or so.
4. You should plan to arrive for the Pesto Experience at least 30 minutes earlier, much earlier if you want a great seat.
5. The Pesto Experience cost 85 euro/person, which I think is the going rate for the touristy area. It was worth the cost IMO. Credit card accepted, and payment is made at Nessun Dorma at the end of the course.
6. Contrary to somethings I read online, the complimentary alcohol is Cinque Terre white wine only, in addition to the take-away red bottle at the end of the Pesto Experience.
7. Plan to take great Manarola pictures after the Pesto Experience.
8. The Pesto Experience is owned by a local, so you are supporting locals in attend the experience.
9. We did the Pesto Experience after walking the Via dell’amore between Riomaggiore and Manarola. Our Via dell’amore tickets were for 11:30 and our Pesto Experience was at 13:30. I thought this was a schedule for timing purposes.
10. You’ll definitely want to take pictures and video a lot, so bring a back up charger. As the Nessun Dorma is essentially outdoors, there is no where to charge devices, etc.

STEAL OUR PESTO EXPERIENCE AT NESSUN DORMA

Nessun Dorma: Located above Manarola. Open daily in good weather. As Nessun Dorma is open air, Nessun Dorma is only open in good weather. The Pesto Experience runs at 10:30 and at 13:30. The Pesto Experience lasts a little over 2 hours.