Assisi is an absolutely adorable hilltop town in Umbria, Italy, about 35 minutes from our beloved Montefalco, and 2.5 hours from Rome (via train). Dan and I first visited Assisi in 2008 (when we studied abroad in Rome for a summer!) and, although we adored Assisi in 2008, did not return until December 2023! That was a mistake, and we won’t wait so long next time. This time around, rather than a couple nights as we did in Summer 2008, we stayed in Brufa, Italy at the Borgobrufa Spa Resort and took a short (but expensive taxi) to Assisi and back. This post reviews what we did during an afternoon in Assisi at Christmastime!
Dan & I in Assisi, circa Summer 2008.
ASSISI, UMBIRA
Assisi is known to many tourists as the home of Saint Francis of Assisi, the Patron Saint of Animals, who was born in Assisi, lived in Assisi, and died in Assisi. In addition to Saint Francis, Assisi is also home to another famous Saint, Saint Chiara (a lady saint!) and so many churches for a tiny little town. You truly cannot visit Assisi without seeing multiple churches and related religious things. All the religious stuff being said, Assisi is also a beautiful Umbrian hilltop town complete with views of the surrounding Umbrian countryside and its own ruined castle. I recommend Assisi to, of course, those coming for religious reasons, but also to those in Umbria and wanting to see a gorgeous hilltop town. Stay the night to see Assisi without the crowds if you can, which are worst during the middle of the day when day trippers and tour groups come from all around.
Assisi from the top of town in December 2023.
Another view of Assisi. Palm trees are out even in the winter months.
In any case, due to its popularity, Assisi is definitely a “tourist town”. And, Assisi gets verrrry crowded with tourists. The positive of this is that Assisi is extremely tourist friendly and has everything a tourist may need. In other words, this town has seen it all and offers ever souvenir a tourist could ever want, gelato and bottled water on every corner, and even multiple tourist trains running through town. The negative side to this is that few locals actually live in the hilltop town of Assisi, and much of what you are seeing here is not the “real” Italy. I still think Assisi is worth a visit because it is truly stunning, but know that you are [probably] not going to see the way real Italians live in Assisi.
The tourist streets of Assisi.
ASSISI’S SITES
In terms of sites in Assisi, there are many, many, many religious adjacent sites. Too many to list. Some of the most famous are the Basilica of St. Francis, the Basilica of Santa Chiara, and San Damiano (half-way down the hill, not right in town). There are also some other sites, such as the stunning La Rocca (the town’s ruined castle). One of my favorite things to do in Assisi is to get out of the touristy areas and just get lost in the town’s back alleys. You can easily lose the crowds if you walk a bit away from the main sites. And, while there are not a lot of “hidden gems” down the side streets, the town is beautifully built and its a joy to just wander.
Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi.
Not sure which church…
La Rocca – at the top of town!
Another photo of La Rocca. This castle is huge.
In La Rocca in 2008 – you can really climb far up the hill. The castle in the background is what is pictured above.
Driving down the backstreets of Assisi on a “ape.”
APE TOUR AROUND ASSISI
If you are really wanting to learn about Assisi and its your first visit, I recommend a guided tour, which tours come in many, many forms in Assisi. A guide will be helpful in explaining the town’s history, as well as pointing out the various sites and keeping the famous religious persons straight! We took an “ape” tour of Assisi this visit, and we found it really fun! For those not familiar, an “ape” is an old Italian mode of transportation, that is basically a three wheeled motorcycle, similar to a tuktuk. It used to be used frequently on Italian farms. An ape fits three passengers, in addition to a driver. Our driver drove us alllll over Assisi in 1.5 hours, and then we stopped for hot chocolate at the end. I would recommend this tour, especially for anyone with mobility issues. We covered a lot of history and saw pretty much the entire town. However, note that the tour does not allot time to go inside the various churches or the castle – you must go back on your own for that.
The ape.
Us on the ape tour.
Our ape at the very top of town (La Rocca).
Hot chocolate at the end of our tour!
ASSISI AT CHRISTMASTIME!
If you are lucky enough to be near Assisi around Christmas, please, please make a visit around sunset! Assisi totally decks out for Christmas, with gorgeous white Christmas lights and Christmas decor all over town. The coolest thing about Assisi’s Christmas decorations IMO is that Assisi’s famous churches illuminate with religious figures at Christmas. This was super cool to see and really beautiful. There is also a small Christmas market just outside of Saint Chiara (think from around December 1st – January 6th).
Santa Chiara illuminated for Christmas.
The Christmas outside Santa Chiara.
Adorable Christmas decor in Assisi.
Christmas lights everywhere in Assisi.
More Christmas lights.
GETTING TO AND AROUND ASSISI
A train runs from Rome Termini to Assisi and takes a little over 2 hours hours. As of 2023, the cost was around 20 euro per person in First Class. I would note that this train is a milk train, with basic seating even in First Class and no food or bar carts. The track in Rome Termini is usually 1 East, which is like the furthest track possible from Termini’s entrance.
For reference, the the train station is 5 km below this point.
The train station in Assisi is located 5 kilometers below the picturesque hill top town that you came to visit. Tourists can reach the top of town via a taxi or a public bus (certainly the cheaper option). The bus is line C and you have to buy tickets for the bus in the little Tabacchi shop in the Assisi train station. Once in Assisi, the main mode of transportation is walking. However, there a multiple tourist trains that run through town, as well as the ape tour that I mentioned for those not wanting to walk. Taxis can go to the hilltop town, but many roads are blocked to cars. That being said, there is a taxi stand right outside Santa Chiara.
MORE PHOTOS OF ASSISI
Here are a few more pictures, because Assisi is so pretty!
Assisi at sunset.
The old town walls – still used as an entrance to the hilltop town.
Pretty building – looks a lot like France.
Pretty door in Assisi.
Another palm tree.
La Rocca.
Hilly Assisi.
Views from Assisi.
STEAL OUR TRIP
Ape Calessino Panoramic Vintage Tour: This is the ape tour we booked through Get Your Guide. It was $77 USD per person, lasted 1.5 hours and included a complimentary hot chocolate at the end of the tour. Side note – it looks like it does not run in January and February.
Gelateria Leccapaletta Assisi: Via Sermei, 2, 06081 Assisi PG, Italy. Located right across from Santa Chiara. This is the place we had our free hot chocolate. Both the hot chocoate and the gelato were fantastic.
Gelato.