Tbilisi Food Tour: Eating Our Way Around Old Tbilisi, Georgia

Close-up of twisted khinkali dumplings and a dish of melted butter at Café Daphna in Tbilisi

On our trip to Georgia and Azerbaijan in July 2026, Dan and I took the Culinary Backstreets Tbilisi food tour on our first full day in Georgia. The tour, Old Town and Beyond: A Tbilisi Silk Road Feast, runs about seven hours and costs $125 per person. We did this because (1) we love to eat and drink and (2) it would give us some historical background and recommendations for Tbilisi. We booked with Culinary Backstreets (not sponsored), the same company we used for our Culinary Backstreets food tour in Izmir in 2023. This post reviews our tour in detail, including what we ate and drank. For how we spent the rest of the week, see our 5-day Tbilisi itinerary.

Panoramic view of Tbilisi, Georgia, with the Kura River winding past green hills and Old Town rooftops

Tbilisi, Georgia!

Where Our Tbilisi Food Tour Began: Abanotubani

Our tour began at 10:00 a.m. in the Abanotubani district at the southeastern edge of the Old Town of Tbilisi. This district is historically home to many of Tbilisi’s bathhouses, which are fueled by Tbilisi’s hot sulfur springs. We met right in front of the most photogenic bathhouse, Chreli Abano (or the Orbeliani Baths). Yes, this is the blue Persian-style building that many think is a mosque. We also saw the rooftops of other old bathhouses in the area. While the bathhouses had nothing to do with our tour, it was interesting to see.

Blue-tiled Persian-style facade of the Orbeliani Baths (Chreli Abano) in the Abanotubani district of Tbilisi

The Orbeliani Baths.

Brick domes of underground sulfur bathhouses in Abanotubani, Old Tbilisi

The roofs of ancient bathhouses.

Stop One: Tea and Khachapuri at Tbilisi’s Last Teahouse

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5 Days in Tbilisi, Georgia: A Foodie Itinerary

Panoramic view of Old Tbilisi, the Kura River and Rike Park from the hill below Narikala Fortress

Last updated: October 2026

We traveled to Tbilisi, Georgia in July 2026. We originally planned this trip for April 2020 but it was cancelled because of the Covid pandemic. Six years later, we finally rescheduled our trip. This post details what we did during our 5 days in Tbilisi, which was very much a food and wine focused itinerary. After Tbilisi, we continued to Batumi, Georgia before flying to Baku, Azerbaijan for a long weekend.

Georgian flag bunting strung across a narrow street of old brick buildings in Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi, Georgia!

Our 5 Days in Tbilisi at a Glance

  • When we went: July 2026
  • Where we stayed: Sheraton Grand Tbilisi Metechi Palace
  • Getting around: Bolt (skip the unofficial airport taxis)
  • Our top meals: OtsY and Khash Khash

Day One: A Late Arrival in Tbilisi, Georgia

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A Culinary Journey Through Baku: Traditional Azerbaijani Foods to Try

Four folded qutab flatbreads on a blue plate, two filled with herbs and two topped with purple sumac

On our 3 days in Baku, Azerbaijan, after our foodie week in Tbilisi, I almost skipped a food tour. I was late planning, and I only found one option online. I booked it a few days in advance. Very unlike me. This turned out to be a fantastic idea, and took us on an Azeri culinary journey through Baku, trying all sorts of traditional Azerbaijani foods that we would never have discovered on our own. This post describes our food tour, and the delicious Azerbaijani foods we sampled.

Baku, Azerbaijan at dusk, with the illuminated Flame Towers rising above a fountain and park

Baku, Azerbaijan.

STOP ONE: A TRADITIONAL AZERBAIJANI DINNER

After meeting our guide in front of a KFC (yes, the US fried chicken chain) near Nizami Park, we jumped right into dinner at an approachable restaurant serving traditional Azerbaijani foods. Fisincan Restoran was our destination. The exterior reminded me a bit of a 1990s Parisian restaurant, with the interior featuring traditional tablecloths, but the ceiling full of plastic flowers popular with the Instagram crowd.

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3 Days in Baku: A Luxury Long Weekend in Azerbaijan

Baku, Azerbaijan.

Last updated: August 2026

Our 3 days in Baku, Azerbaijan closed out our big Georgian vacation, which had been in the making since its cancellation in 2020 (due to Covid). Back then, I chose Baku due to a direct flight from Baku to JFK on Azerbaijan Airlines. The flight is no more (as of August 2026), but I kept the itinerary. Going in, I had no idea what to expect from Azerbaijan, and I hoped that we would be admitted entry after our 2020 visa was formally revoked due to border closings….

Map of the Caucasus showing Baku, Azerbaijan between Russia and Iran on the Caspian Sea

Baku on a map. It is situated right between Russia and Iran.

Spoiler alert, we had a wonderful time in Baku, and will 100% return. This article details our time in Baku, Azerbaijan and provides some practical information.

For those unfamiliar with Azerbaijan, Azerbaijan was formerly part of the USSR, having declared its independence in 1991, a few months before the USSR dissolved that December. Since then, it’s done quite well financially, capitalizing on its natural oil and gas. I’ve often heard it compared to Dubai for that reason, as well as its modern architecture. Located directly between Russia and Iran, with foreigners currently only able to enter by air (as of August 2026), it’s not exactly an easy destination to reach. A visa is also required for many nationalities, including US and Italian citizens (our nationalities). I found Baku to be, surprisingly, more European than Middle Eastern, having absolutely delicious food, friendly to foreigners, and honestly, making decent wine (a very big shock!).

Baku skyline of modern high-rise towers above the Caspian Sea waterfront

Baku, Azerbaijan. Not what I expected…

We began our trip a few months in advance, by applying for a tourist visa online via Azerbaijan’s official website. We were approved within 1 business day (we applied on a weekend and were approved on Monday). The visa cost $20 USD (as of August 2026) and was valid for 90 days from the date of issuance, permitting us a single entry for up to 30 days in Azerbaijan. We printed the visa and brought it with us, but we did not need to show it in Azerbaijan (we were not even asked about it). The only place we needed to show the original visa was at the Batumi airport leaving Georgia.

DAY ONE: ARRIVAL IN AZERBAIJAN & DINNER IN BAKU

We arrived at Baku’s Heydar Aliyev International Airport in the early evening from Batumi, Georgia. Arrival and immigration were quick and easy. Our luggage arrived promptly, and we called a Bolt (a company similar to Uber) to our hotel in downtown Baku, the Four Seasons. The Bolt cost less than $10 USD. We arrived at our hotel about 30 minutes later.

Retro Soviet-style signage inside Heydar Aliyev International Airport in Baku

Welcome to Baku! The airport had a lot of old school signage.

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