On my week vacation to Panama earlier this year, my first dinner was at the well-reputed Fonda Lo Que Hay restaurant. Fonda Lo Que Hay is listed on the 50 Best “Discovery” list for Latin America, and it generally gets very good reviews. It was also Number 57 on the 50 Best Latin America restaurants in 2022. That was enough for me to make a Saturday evening reservation, as I had had success with other 50 Best restaurants (like El Chato in Bogota and Borago in Santiago).

Fonda Lo Que Hay, or “LQH” as it sometimes refers to itself, is located in Casco Viejo, or “old Panama City.” The area immediately surrounding the restaurant is walkable and safe, as well as quite well lit at night due to numerous tourist trinket shops in the immediate area. We found the restaurant pretty easily and were instantly impressed by its cute decor, which was giving trendy, Panamanian, tropical, cocktail bar, LOL.

For those unfamilar with a “fonda,” fondas (plural) were described to me as cheap roadside restaurants at which local Panamanians frequently stop to meet friends and family and enjoy local, casual fare. While we did not eat at a proper fonda in Panama, we heard a lot about them. Fonda Lo Que Hay is chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas moden take on a fonda. The menu did feature some Panamanian staples, such as the very tasty pork sandwich, but also some surprises, like the chef’s take on cacio e pepe, a famous Roman pasta dish (which is so great at Roma Sparita and Roscioli, both in Rome)

In any case, we were seated at a cute table in a side room, right next to an adorable bar, which didn’t get much use during our dinner. We began with, of course, the fonda’s cocktails, which are supposed to be quite impressive. And in looks, the cocktails certainly were impressive. All very pretty with lavish garnishes. However, the cocktails were not strong, which was a bit unfortunate, at least for us. We, nevertheless, enjoyed a few various cocktails.

The food menu changes seasonally at LQH, or so I am told, but it generally offers various sizes of dishes. Smaller ones, which I equated to starters, medium dishes, and large plates, which Dan and I could have shared.

We split three dishes between us, and this was plenty of food for dinner. The first thing I ordered was the Pork Leg Sandwich, which was quite possibly the best thing I ate in Panama. Seriously, it was SO good. The pork was served with a pickle aioli and hummus on really great bread. Dan and I split the sandwich, but I wish I had just ordered it all for myself, ha.

To compliment my pork sandwich, Dan ordered Fonda’s tripe, or Mondongo, which is generally one of his favorite dishes. This tripe was served almost Indian style, in presentation at least, with coconut rice and a side sauce.

For our big dish, I just couldn’t pass up Fonda Lo Que Hay’s cacio e pepe. Cacio e pepe is one of Rome’s four famous pasta dishes, and we both love it. We also don’t really like it outside of Rome, so I’m not really sure what we were thinking here. LQH’s cacio e pepe with penne pasta, beef tongue bites, fried wontons, and sweet plantains. Was it the cacio e pepe that I expected, absolutely not, but was it pretty interesting, absolutely yes. Next time, i would probably try LQH’s Fried Chicken.

All in, I very, very much enjoyed our dinner at Fonda Lo Que Hay. The setting was chic, and that pork sandwich was to die for. Definitely add it to your Panama City list of restaurants, especially if you are staying in Casco Viejo!

STEAL OUR DINNER

Fonda Lo Que Hay: Old Town, Panama City, Jose Obaldia Street, El Colegio Building, Ground Floor. Reservation suggested. Casual attire. Credit card accepted.