A Perfect (and Reasonably Priced) Lunch in Irsina: Trattoria Nugent

05/05/202630/06/2026wareontheglobe Leave a comment

As promised, in follow up to my last post discovering family roots in Irsina, Basilicata (Italy), this post highlights a stand out lunch at Trattoria Nugent, one of only a handful of restaurants in this small, charming town.

In short, it was everything you’d hope for in a local Italian meal. The restaurant was easy to find, welcoming, and absolutely delicious. It was also very local, and the prices pleasantly reasonable. It was exactly the kind of place that makes travel feel personal – simple, genuine, and deeply satisfying.

The group at Trattoria Nugent in Irsina, Italy. Trattoria Nugent had no issues with accommodating a group of 10!

TRATTORIA NUGENT

Trattoria Nugent is located in a picturesque courtyard of Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, Irsina’s main square. Open every day for lunch and dinner, except Tuesday, this restaurant describes itself as serving traditional Lucana dishes. We made a reservation a week in advance by having our tour guide call ahead. That being said, you can contact Trattoria Nugent via its What’s App, which information is on its Instagram page, to make a reservation. While you may not need a reservation, they are incredibly common in Italy so that restaurants can prepare an appropriate amount of food. Read – be like a local and make a resy!

Trattoria Nugent in Irsina.

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We Traveled to Irsina, Italy to Find a Family Home—Here’s What Happened

28/04/202630/06/2026wareontheglobe 1 Comment

As you may know, I have planned numerous Italy vacations, including a few with around 10 people. In 2025, however, I was asked to plan the most important one yet – a 10-person trip to Italy to visit an ancestral home in the tiny town of Irsina, Italy! Challenged accepted.

In this post, I’m sharing how our time in Irsina played out—and how you might plan a similar Italian roots-seeking experience of your own.

The whole family – plus me and Dan – in Irsina, Italia. WE MADE IT!

IRSINA, ITALIA

Irsina, Italy is a tiny, hilltop town in Basilicata. It is about 45 minutes from Matera by car, which is likely the closest city to Irsina that you know. The population is only around 5,000 people, including some ex-pats from the US (Irsina was the subject of an interesting CNN article in 2023 discussing its ex-pat community).

From its hilltop perch, Irsina over looks a sweeping grain plateau, which produces much of the pasta used in Italy(!). Given that fact, the city’s economy is, not surprisingly, largely based on agriculture. Tourism is an afterthought at best. Indeed, I did not see a single tourist-centric shop (or honestly even an open shop) during our time in Irsina.

Some of the grain fields surrounding Irsina. They are quite majestic.

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Off-the-Beaten-Path Italy: Matera’s Ancient Streets and Delicious Eats

22/04/202626/07/2026wareontheglobe Leave a comment

Matera was the second stop on our 2025 Italian family trip, and one I’d planned with intention. Tucked into the southern region of Basilicata, this wasn’t my first visit. Dan and I had traveled to Matera back in 2021, and I knew it was somewhere worth returning to, especially if you want an Italy experience that feels completely different from the usual Rome–Florence–Venice (or Amalfi) circuit.

Welcome Matera, Italia. It doesn’t look anything like the Italian hotspots.

We based ourselves in Matera for a special, and specific, reason: it’s the closest city to our friend’s ancestral hometown of Irsina. That made Matera the perfect home base for a day trip to Irsina, which ended up being one of the most memorable parts of our trip. While Irsina was the reason for our visit, we spent a decent amount of time in Matera itself.

Matera’s Sassi.

If you haven’t been, Matera doesn’t feel like anywhere else in Italy. The cave dwellings, the winding stone alleys, the layered views over the Sassi; it almost feels cinematic (and for good reason). This post walks you through exactly how we spent our time in Matera—what we prioritized, where we ate and drank, and how I’d recommend doing the same if you’re following a similar itinerary.

MATERA, ITALY: A [VERY] BRIEF BACKGROUND

Matera is the second-largest city in Basilicata and easily the region’s most visited, but it feels absolutely nothing like the rest of Italy. It’s one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, with roots dating back to the 8th millennium BC. Adding to its ancientness, Matera is carved directly into limestone rock and split between two historic cliffside districts known as the Sassi, plus a modern town above.

Matera against a bright blue background. We had great weather when we arrived…

We stayed in the Sassi, and I’d recommend doing the same, unless you have mobility issues, as the Sassi is where you really experience what makes Matera special. Indeed, walking through the Sassi feels like stepping into another time entirely. It feels older and quieter that Italy’s more popular destiations, and a little surreal. The closest comparisons I can make are Petra in Jordan, Cappadocia in Türkiye, or Mdina in Malta, with its layered stone buildings and dramatic views carved into the landscape.

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The Perfect First Night in Rome – A Trastevere Food Tour

20/01/202631/07/2026wareontheglobe Leave a comment

Ristorante Pancrazio. Cento Storico, Roma.

Before kicking off our big Italian vacation in 2026 on the Amalfi Coast, we spent one day and evening in Rome. The sole item on our agenda was a food tour through one or Dan and my favorite neighborhoods in Rome, Trastevere (fun fact – also where we lived when we studied in Rome!). This was the third time we have taken this tour, and it was just as good as we remembered. This post details our food tour through Trastevere with Eating Europe!

Roman ruins on the walk to a Trastevere food tour in Rome

Walking to the food tour. I love Rome so much – just casually passing ruins on our walk.

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Cantina di Vesuvio: A Fun Winery Lunch After Pompeii

16/01/202631/07/2026wareontheglobe Leave a comment

On the heels of my post about the wonderful Le Vigne di Raito in Raito, Italy, this post details our experience at another winery we visited on our trip to the Amalfi Coast, Cantina del Vesuvio Winery! We visited Cantina del Vesuvio after a full morning exploring Pompeii with a private guide and after hectic and crowded Pompeii, Cantina del Vesuvio was a welcome retreat away from the crowds, complete with delicious food and a decent amount of wine. I certainly recommend a visit after Pompeii.

Umbrella pine trees at Cantina del Vesuvio winery on Mount Vesuvius

Cantina del Vesuvio. I love these trees.

Cantina del Vesuvio Winery is literally located on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius (or Monte Vesuvio in Italian), hence the name. Given its location, the winery offers beautiful views, including of Sorrento and the Gulf of Naples and of Mount Vesuvius. We drove about 20 minutes from Pompeii to Cantina del Vesuvio, arriving slightly early for our pre-booked tasting and lunch (there is free parking on site!). And yes, a tour and lunch is the standard package. Its reasonably priced and easy to reserve online. And on that note, reservations are required, but I don’t think you need to make them too far in advance.