24 Hours in Hallstatt, Austria – September 2014

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Hallstatt, Austria was our third stop of Eurotrip2014, and Hallstatt was quite possibly my favorite place on the trip!  Hallstatt is a tiny village in the Salzkammergut lake district in the middle of Austria, historically known for salt production, and recently known for tourism (and for the knock-off replica in China).  I added Hallstatt to our iteniary based on a picture that I saw two years ago on CNN’s travel photo of the day – seriously.  Random, but Hallstatt totally lived up to my expectations.

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Our trip was quite short – only 24 hours – and it took some effort to get here.  Specifically, we left Munich around 1 p.m. and took the train to Salzburg (about 2 hours).  From Salzburg, we took a different train to Attnang-Puchheim (about 50 minutes), where we changed again to a local (read: slow) train to Hallstatt.  Once at the Hallstatt train station, we took a boat, the Stefanie, across the lake to the town of Hallstatt.  This took a grand total of about six hours.  Hallstatt was worth it, but the trip can be difficult.

301 The train/Stefanie dock.

We arrived just as it was getting dark.  The boat ride across the lake was beautiful, and I think we all fell in love with Hallstatt on that boat ride.  We found our hotel, Gasthof Bergfried, pretty easily, checked in and set off for one of the best dinners of the trip!  Note – if you arrive late (like after 6:30) call your hotel and let them know.  Hallstatt is very much a morning/day town and most everything except restaurants close at night.  We called ahead and our hotel left directions and keys to the room for us.

Now, on to my favorite dinner of the trip!  We dined at Gasthof Zauner based on TripAdvisor recommendations.  It was delicious.  The meal started with complementary bread with two butteresque spreads – a potato-based one and a pimento cheesy one!  For mains, I ordered my favorite, the schwineschnitzel, which is pork schnitzel.  The schnitzel was so, so declicious here.  YUM!! Everyone else got pork medallions in gorgonzala sauce, which was also decision, but everyone agreed that mine was the best!  For dessert, we split the famous (and HUGE) Salzburg dessert, the Salzburger Nockerl.

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Before dinner, we stopped by the local Spar (a European grocery chain), which must be the best small grocery store in the world!  The Spar had a great selection of souvenirs, Austrian candy (including Mozart balls for less than in Salzburg), bacon-wrapped hotdogs  and a wine bar with Austrian wine (who knew?!).  Yes, a wine bar!  I lost Dan for a few minutes, and I found him at the wine bar!  The owners were really nice, too!

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For our only day in Hallstatt, we woke up early to head up to Rudolfsturm – where my CNN picture was taken!  Note, Rudolfsturm is the only lookout point in Hallstatt, but there are several more a short bus ride away.  Make sure you know what you are looking for before getting on a bus!

Rudolfsturm is directly above Hallstatt, very close to the entrance of the salt mine (which we skipped).  To get to Rudolfsturm, you take a funicular to the top of the mountain.

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The entrance is right behind our hotel, Gasthof Berfried, and you can follow the “salt mine guy” (above) to the funicular.  To go to the salt mine, continue following the “salt mine guy,” other wise head right up to the Rudolfsturm.  Rudolfstrum has an awesome lookout point with great views!  For an awesome picture, wait for the tourists to clear out (it will happen!) and take a picture of just yourself at the tip of the lookout!

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Rudlofsturm also has a restaurant and outdoor beer garden/tables.  When we went the outdoor dining area/beer garden was closed for food due to bad weather, so we just had drinks outside.  Prices were pretty reasonable!  My attempts at recreating my CNN photo are below!  The middle one isn’t bad!

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After visiting Rudolfsturm, we walked around town, tried the local Hallstatt Bier, shopped and had a great day!

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LOGISTICS

Rudolfsturm

Salzbergstraße 1

4830 Hallstatt • Austria

Phone: +43 (0)6136/8811-0

info@rudolfsturmhallstatt.at

Bärenwirt Salzburg

In Salzburg, we dined at a delicious restaurant a short walk from our apartment – Bärenwirt.  This restaurant is just up the hill from the Altstadt on the way to Augustiner Bräu.  We walked by this restaurant earlier in our trip, and we were so glad that we returned!  Dan and I dined on pumpkin soup, a meat platter, schweinschnitzel and German chocolate cake. YUM!! This may have been the best schnitzel I had on the trip (close with my Hallstatt schnitzel), and this was certainly our best meal in Salzburg.  Our waitress spoke perfect English and was extremely friendly. The meal ended with a complementary bowl of gummy bears – so cute!  When the waitress saw that we were excited about the gummy bears, she gave us some extras in a to go bag!

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Bärenwirt also claims to have “the best friend chicken.” Craig tried it, and he seemed to like it.  Growing up in Virginia, it was hard for me to get on board with this.  However, it seemed like a valiant attempt.

LOGISTICS

Bärenwirt Salzburg

Müllner Hauptstraße 8

5020 Salzburg

Tel +43 (0)662 422 404

We didn’t make a reservation and were able to walk-in around 8 on a Saturday.

Dorfschänke

Dorfschänke was our first real meal of the Eurotrip2014, and it was so delicious!!  It remains a strong contender for best meal of the trip!

The restaurant is located in the new part of town, only a few blocks from where the Philosopher’s Walk ends (or begins…depending on where you start…we started the Philosopher’s Walk at the bridge end and ended just in time for dinner near Dorfschänke).

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We did not have a reservation, and we were immediately seated outside at our request.  Our waiver spoke perfect English and was very helpful in explaining the menu to us and their specialities.  Dorfschänke’s main speciality is Flammkuchen, which is a pizza-type meal that comes in savory and sweet flavors.  Yum!

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We started with local beers that came from a town about 15 kilometers away.  For dinner, Pryor and I split the savory flammkuchen, which was topped with tomatoes, bacon, veggies and cheese – and probably a few other delicious things.  It was AMAZING!  We also split a local pasta stuffed with cheese.  Unfortunately, we did not get a picture.  But, believe me, it was also amazing!  Dan and Craig ordered the cordon bleu schnitzel and they seemed happy.  For dessert, we split the sweet flammkuchen (pictured above).

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All in all, this restaurant was so delicious  I would recommend it to anyone in Heidelberg!

LOGISTICS

Dorfschänke

Lutherstr. 14

69120 Heidelberg-Neuenheim

0 62 21 – 41 90 41

Notes – When we visited, the crowd seemed to be mostly locals.  I would recommend calling ahead for a reservation in busy season.

Schnitzelbank

We dined at Schnitzelbank on our final night in Heidelberg.  Schnitzelbank is a small restaurant/wine bar in the Altstadt. It is tiny (but oh so charming), so make a reservation. We called the day of and got their final reservation. The specialty is obviously schnitzel! They have schnitzel in veal, pork, chicken and turkey. I ordered the pork in a mushroom sauce and it was very tasty. I also tried the turkey schnitzel in a dijon sauce, and that was tasty, as well (but also not fried – booooo). Dan ordered the schnitzel cordon bleu. That was fried and delicious; Dan won the dinner game!  All of the portions were big and came with some delicious sides.

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Schnitzelbank is a also a weinstube (a wine bar) with local wine von fass (on tap!)! Schnitzelbank had an extensive wine list and the waiter – who spoke great English – helped us choose some delicious, local wines! To my lovely surprise, reisling can be dry, and red (who would have known?!), and Germany makes some good, red wines that are not super sweet! If you are in the Heidelberg area, you should definitely check out a weinstube! Wine seemed more important to the people here than beer (a change from Bavaria!), and we were happy to participate in the tradition.

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LOGISTICS

Weinstube Schnitzelbank

Bauamtsgasse 7

69117 Heidelberg

+49 6221 21189